Nancy E. Adams Nancy E. Adams

Related Articles

Q. I worry every snow storm that my landscape plants will suffer. How should I handle the snow that inevitably falls on them each winter? —J. Boynton in Bellows Falls, Vt.

Never plant shrubs directly under a roof overhang in order to avoid damage by snow falling off the roof. Moisture-laden snow can be safely removed from landscape plants while gently supporting their branches. Don’t remove lightweight, fluffy snow or ice from branches—let Mother Nature melt away these worries.

Snow is often a good news/bad news occurrence in our landscapes. It‘s so beautiful when newly fallen, we often forget the effect it has on living plants. Let’s start with the good news.

Bare soils and cold winter temperatures can spell disaster for small feeder plant roots near the soil surface. Add some snow and you have a wonderful blanket of insulation to counteract the potentially damaging effects of plunging air temperatures. Research in Alaska by Jenifer McBeath found that with a snow depth of twenty-one inches and an outdoor air temperature of 5oF, the temperature at the root zone registered 32oF. This insulation layer helps mitigate the freezing, thawing and heaving action of bare soil. Remember, root systems are less cold hardy than shoot systems!

Snow also provides a valuable source of water for landscape plants. New snow often has a density of between 7 percent and 12 percent water, which may settle by late spring to a density exceeding 50 percent water—the remainder being trapped air. Always water plants well before the ground freezes, and melting snow may supply the rest of a plant’s springtime water requirements.

The bad news centers on the weight of snow. Snowstorms that bring light, fluffy snow are seldom of concern, but moisture-laden snow can easily bend and break plant limbs. Don’t bother removing lightweight snow. However, heavy snow may be gently removed if you support the branch. Ice should be allowed to melt naturally.

Here are some thoughts to consider:
• The first line of defense against snow damage is to improve a plant’s architecture or structure with proper pruning—customarily done in spring/early summer for most plants. Avoid surface cuts, which stimulate growth only along the outer perimeter of the plant.
• Locate plants away from the roof overhang. Snow can easily cascade off a roof, endangering the plants below.
• Be aware of where snow is placed when removed from the drive and walkways. Designate a snow removal site away from major landscape areas.

Q. I see bonsai plants at my local garden center and wonder how difficult it is to take care of them. Where can I learn more about them? —Elizabeth Brady in Dover, N.H.

This bonsai is a forest-style planting of junipers, Juniperus chinensis var. foemina, and was fifty-seven years old when the photo was taken at the National Arboretum in Washington, D.C. It was created by American master John Y. Naka and is titled GOSHIN ‘Protector of the Spirit.’

Bonsai refers to a Japanese technique of creating “miniature” containerized trees and shrubs by restricting the root and shoot growth of normal, full-sized plants. Bonsai and its precursor, the ancient Chinese art form penjing, seek to capture the essence and beauty of nature. It’s thought that China introduced the technique to Japan between the sixth and eighth centuries. Today, bonsai has become a catchall phrase to refer to both Asian styles.

The finest bonsai and penjing exhibit I have ever seen is housed in the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum at the National Arboretum—a ten-minute drive northeast from the Capitol in Washington, D.C. The collection began in 1976 when the people of Japan presented us with fifty-three world-class bonsai specimens for our bicentennial celebration. One Japanese white pine bonsai dates from 1626. Imagine the responsibility of caring for its health and well-being! The collection expanded in 1986 with the gift of Chinese penjing and now includes modern-day specimens from American masters. Stop by on your next trip to that city—it’s a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. Armchair tourists can enjoy this virtual tour: usna.usda.gov/Gardens/collections/bonsai.html.

Successful bonsai cultivation requires a careful eye for maintaining optimum growing conditions. Due to the small soil volume in the container, adequate soil moisture and nutrition must be constantly maintained. Plants are usually placed outdoors during the growing season in a site protected from harsh summer winds and sunlight. Careful shoot and root pruning must be practiced, and artistry is required to create the image of natural perfection. During the winter, the plants must be brought into a protected environment, such as a garage, and maintained in a dormant state until spring.

If you’d like to learn more about bonsai, visit the American Bonsai Society’s Web page at absbonsai.org. This site contains links to helpful bonsai Web sites throughout the world, lists of regional chapters and local clubs, and offers excerpts from past newsletters. It’s a wonderful place to start your adventure into the exotic world of bonsai.

Resources
American Bonsai Society in Toledo, Ohio; absbonsai.org
National Bonsai and Penjing Museum, United States National Arboretum, in Washington, D.C.; 202 245-2726; usna.usda.gov/Gardens/collections/bonsai.html
 
Q. I would like to have a landscape design developed for my home. I’m confused as to whether to search for a local landscape architect or garden designer. What is the difference? —Viola Russell in Westmoreland, N.H.

Selecting a designer for a home landscape job can be difficult. There are so many different types of individuals advertising their design services, it’s not easy to make an informed decision.

A “landscape architect” is a licensed designation in forty-seven states—Vermont is currently the only New England state without a licensing process. Licensing generally requires passing the Landscape Architect Registration Exam (LARE)—administered by the Council of Landscape Architectural Registration Boards—completing a four-year landscape architect degree, working a number of years under the direct supervision of a licensed landscape architect and amassing continuing education credits. Landscape architects are often involved in large-scale commercial or public works projects requiring construction and project administration, program development, site design, construction documentation and grading/drainage/storm-water management. However, some landscape architects specialize in residential design. Expect landscape architects to be at the high end of the design pay scale.

Wonderful landscape plans can also be created by landscape designers. These folks often have completed collegiate landscape design programs and, through years of experience, can offer creative solutions to design challenges. To increase the level of professionalism offered by these businesses, some states have introduced a voluntary landscape professional certification program, such as the Certified New Hampshire Landscape Professional. This program requires participants to have three years of professional experience, pass a rigorous exam and maintain continuing education credits.

Selecting a landscape architect or designer requires the same due diligence as hiring any professional. Meet with multiple design candidates. Are you comfortable with them? Are they listening to your concerns and desires for the property? Is their portfolio of work in sync with your project scope? Do they also implement the design?

Ask for references and follow up on them. Look at landscape designs in your area that you admire and ask what company provided the design and installation. Be thorough and proactive, and you’ll be sure to make a decision that leads to a successful landscape design.


Nancy E. Adams is a horticulturist who has spent the past thirty-five years working in agricultural settings as diverse as the Peace Corps in Brazil and Poland and UNH Cooperative Extension. She now offers on-site horticultural consultations for home and commercial landscapes, and speaks to garden clubs on a variety of horticultural topics. Contact her at hortaquest@comcast.net or 603 969-4855.