Nancy E. Adams

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Recommended Butterfly Plant Material Flowers Beebalm (Monarda) Butterfly Weed (Asclepias) Columbine (Aquilegia) Coneflower (Echinacea) Coreopsis (Coreopsis) Lantana (Lantana) Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia) Phlox (Phlox) Verbena (Verbena) Yarrow (Achillea) Zinnia (Zinnia) Shrubs & Trees Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) Mock orange (Philadelphus) Pear (Pyrus) Plum (Prunus) Redbud (Cercis) Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus) Spiraea (Spiraea) Summersweet (Clethra) Viburnum (Viburnum) Vines Hyacinth Bean (Dolichos) Morning Glory (Ipomoea) Scarlet Runner Bean (Phaseolus) Passion Vine (Passiflora) Herbs (for caterpillars) Dill, Fennel, Oregano, Parsley, Sage Grasses/Legumes (for caterpillars) Alfalfa, Clover, Vetch Click here to learn more about butterfly gardens

Q: It seems that each year some of my favorite perennials (lupine, poppy, delphinium, etc.) become attacked by massive numbers of small, plump, and juicy insects. What are they and do I need to be concerned? -Jonathan White, Marblehead, MA

A: From your description, it sounds as if the problem is aphids––a common soft-bodied pear-shaped insect that attacks a wide variety of plants throughout the growing season. Under magnification, you’d see a slender mouthpart that extends into tender plant tissue to suck out plant fluids. Other distinguishing features include long legs and antennae, and a pair of tubelike structures called cornicles projecting from the rear of their bodies. Colors vary from green and yellow to brown, black, or red. Aphids love company, so look for dense colonies on the undersides of leaves and surrounding stems.

Aphids have an uncanny ability to increase their numbers rapidly. During the temperate summer months, adult females can give birth to live young––up to 12 per day––without mating or laying eggs! These young reach maturity within two weeks to continue this reproductive cycle unabated. No wonder aphid numbers can explode; it’s a lesson in population dynamics that heavily favors the pesky aphid.

 What plant damage can we expect? When aphid numbers are low, plants should be able to manage without noticeable damage. Distorted, cupped, and curled leaves are often signs that large numbers of aphids are at work. As they feed, aphids exude a sticky, sugary substance called honeydew, which attracts ants and the growth of a black sooty mold fungus––further evidence of an aphid infestation.

The good news is that a number of natural predators and enemies attack aphids. Various species of parasitic wasps, lady beetles, syrphid flies, and lacewings are particularly fond of aphids. Additionally, aphids are very susceptible to deadly fungal diseases during periods of high humidity. Hand removal & pruning, insecticidal soaps, warm-water sprays, and summer-weightoil insecticides are alternative control recommendations. The key is to identify and manage the problem early, before severe damage occurs.

Q: I’m a nature lover and would like to attract butterflies to my garden. I would appreciate recommendations for both perennials and shrubs. -M. Perez, Salem, N.H.

A: Butterflies add a dash of delight to any garden setting. Who can resist watching swallowtails or Monarch butterflies flitting about a cluster of colorful flowers in search of heavenly nectar? While there is no guarantee that butterflies will take up residence in your garden, here are some pointers to help improve your chances.

Begin by creating a total butterfly habitat. As with any wildlife species, butterflies require food, cover, and water––a mix of flowers, trees, and shrubs to support their entire life cycle. For adults, trees and shrubs offer perching sites for feeding, and shelter and protection against the elements, particularly wind. Leaf litter, tree cavities, and thick vegetation may be required for overwintering caterpillars, adults, and pupae. Plan to visit and study local butterfly “hot spots” to see first hand the environments they favor, and then mimic that look in your own garden.

Notice that butterflies prefer flowering plants in open sunny locations with nearby cover. Develop the planting plan so that bloom periods overlap, thereby offering a nectar source throughout the warm, summer months. And don’t forget to place the butterfly garden near your house or another convenient viewing area.

Water is a key resource for wildlife survival. While experts believe that nectar serves as the primary water resource for butterflies, supplying an area with moist sand or soil to create shallow mud puddles will allow butterflies an opportunity to cool off and perhaps imbibe dissolved salts and other needed minerals.

Finally, minimize the use of insecticides and herbicides that target plants butterflies will habit. You’ll be promoting sustainable gardening practices, while encouraging a healthy butterfly habitat.

Q: My back lawn needs to be replanted and I don’t want to wait for grass seed to germinate and grow. Is sod an option for me to consider? 
-E. Violette, Kensington, N.H.

A: Sod is increasingly being used around new home construction sites and in landscape renovation installations. Since sod covers the ground completely once installed, it prevents soil erosion, eliminates dust and mud, provides immediate access for foot traffic, allows for water infiltration, and discourages weed seed germination that often hinders newly-seeded areas. However, sod does have some disadvantages compared with seeding a lawn. Foremost is cost. Sod costs more to buy and install than grass seed, and the type of sod is often limited to Kentucky bluegrass varieties or blends. Bluegrass thrives in sunny, high-maintenance settings, but is less than ideal for shady sites or for those desiring low-maintenance
turf alternatives.

Download the UNH Cooperative Extension fact sheet, Installing and Maintaining a Sod Lawn,
 http://extension.unh.edu/Pubs/HGPubs/sod.pdf, for complete details on this topic.

To have your gardening questions answered, write us at editor@accentmagazine.com.