Nancy E. Adams Nancy E. Adams

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Q I’m told that summer-flowering bulbs can offer valuable interest to my garden. I plant tulips and daffodils each fall, but don’t know much about bulbs I’d plant in the spring! -Judy Delaney, Cape Neddick, ME

A It’s true that the word ‘bulb’ conjures up images of colorful tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, snowdrops, and other wonderful spring-flowering beauties. These hardy bulbs are planted in the fall when cool soil temperatures permit root development prior to the approaching winter doldrums. However, there is another group of non-hardy, tender bulbs that must be planted in the spring. These bulbs root quickly and produce leaves and flowers that same season. For simplicity’s sake, I’m going to refer to these plants as having ‘bulbs’... although technically some are not true bulbs but are indeed tubers, corms, or rhizomes. We’ll leave the specifics to the botanist to decipher!

Summer-flowering bulbs include those primarily grown for their showy flowers such as Tuberous Begonia, Dahlia, Freesia, Canna, Calla Lily and Gladiolus. Others offer exotic foliage to add interest to the garden. Caladium, Elephant ear, and Oxalis fit into this category. Whichever type is selected, be sure to follow the instructions as to the proper spacing and planting depth for each species. Grouping bulbs together will provide a more powerful color impact than planting lone spectators haphazardly throughout the flower bed.

No special care is required during the growing season for summer-flowering bulbs. Water as needed and provide a light mulch material to conserve moisture. However, you’ll need to spring into action in the fall once the leaves die back and before the ground freezes—late September/early October. The bulbs must be carefully lifted from the ground, trimmed of dead leaves, gently cleaned of loose soil and stored under proper temperature and humidity conditions. Unfortunately, there are no simple guidelines for storing bulbs—conditions vary considerably. North Carolina State University has a wonderful website which lists the habits and requirements of almost 100 summer-flowering bulbs!

Q My home abuts a busy city street that receives a considerable amount of road salt each winter. I notice my landscape plants are suffering as a result. Any ideas that might help me combat this problem? -Conrad Everett, Manchester, NH

A Drive along New Hampshire’s roadways in early spring and summer and you’ll often notice trees, shrubs, and lawns showing the negative effects of de-icing salt. Evergreen needles on white pines turn brown, the ubiquitous sugar maple leaves have brown leaf edges and lawns have dead areas alongside sidewalks. With time and continued yearly salt exposure, the plants overall health will decline.

De-icing salt is primarily sodium chloride. Sprayed on needles, twigs, or buds, salt draws moisture out of plant tissues causing visible desiccation and burn. As the salt dissolves in water and enters the soil profile, the ions separate. The sodium displaces valuable phosphorus and potassium making them unavailable for plant uptake and the chloride ions rapidly enter the plant where they accumulate in the leaves and interfere with photosynthesis and chlorophyll production. Damage appears as marginal leaf burn or scorch, branch dieback, stunted growth, lack of plant vigor, or death.

How can we minimize the effects of road salt?

Consider the following:

• Use de-icing agents with calcium chloride or calcium magnesium acetate–less toxic alternatives.
• Mix sand, sawdust or cinders with salt before applying to provide improved traction with less salt accumulation.
• Erect physical barriers to salt spray with seasonal plant barricades of burlap or snow-fencing.
• Direct snow removal to areas away from sensitive landscape plantings.
• Improve drainage in trouble spots so that salt water is diverted away from nearby plants.
• Avoid planting salt-sensitive plants within 50 feet of salted roadways. These include: Sugar maple, Red maple, Dogwood, Magnolia, Eastern white pine, Eastern hemlock, White spruce and Scotch pine.

Select salt-tolerant species for roadside plantings:
Trees: Sycamore maple, Ginkgo, Honeylocust, Eastern red cedar,Austrian pine, Japanese pagoda tree, and lilac.
Shrubs: Siberian pea-shrub, Cotoneaster species, Forsythia, Bayberry, Smooth sumac, and Beach rose.
Groundcovers: Bearberry, Virginia creeper, and Bugleweed.

Q I’d like to add a water feature in my garden. Are fountains hard to set up and maintain? -Vicki Carr, Bedford, NH

A Garden fountains are a wonderful water feature to introduce into any home landscape. They easily become a focal point—a garden element which imparts a soothing, almost mesmerizing effect on its viewer. It’s also guaranteed to attract birds and butterflies!

The first decision you’ll need to make is determining which style of fountain to purchase. While clean, contemporary lines are currently in vogue, a period garden surrounding a Victorian home is better suited to a more traditional fountain design. Select a style that complements its surroundings whether it’s a stand- alone unit or one which needs a wall or fence to provide a support backdrop.

Fountains are made from a single medium—bamboo, metal, stone, cement, ceramic, wood—or some combination thereof. The choices are extensive, from fountains that spurt or gurgle water to those that simply spill or ooze water over a perimeter surface. Water chimes and musical fountains are also available that produce subtle, relaxing sounds.
As winter approaches, fountains must be thoroughly drained of their water. Afterwards, give it a final cleaning and either cover it with a tarp or bring it indoors for added protection.