Nancy E. Adams

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Q.  I love buying pumpkins this time of year. I’ve noticed there are different sizes, colors, and shapes of pumpkins in the marketplace. What’s the latest on this popular plant? –C. Smith, Auburn, N.H.

A. It’s generally accepted that pumpkins and squash originated in the Americas, and references to them date back many centuries. The origin of the name is interesting. It started with the Greek word for “large melon,” which is “pepon,” and many language permutations later, “pepon” had become “pompon,” which later morphed into “pumpion” before finally settling on “pumpkin.”

Pumpkins (Cucurbita) are members of the Cucurbit family, as are its winter squash and summer squash relatives. Due to its coarse flesh and strong flavor, pumpkin is generally used in pies, not served as a baked vegetable like winter squash. Although there are a few different species of Cucurbita, we commonly call all large orange-skinned squash fruit “pumpkins” regardless of their parentage.

Although full-sized orange Halloween pumpkins are the gold standard, plant breeders have been busy expanding the color and size options for this fruit. Miniature pumpkins with such popular names as ‘Jack Be Little,’ ‘Baby Bear’, ‘Baby Boo,’ and ‘Munchkin’ make wonderful ornamental decorations in a range of orange and white colors.

‘Lil Pump Ke Mon’ is another miniature  pumpkin with orange and green stripes on a white background. Looking for something more exotic? Consider the larger white variety pumpkins such as ‘Lumina’ and ‘Casper’—they provide an interesting contrast to their orange cousins. Red hues can be found on ‘Rouge Vif d’Etampes,’ a French variety with a flattened shape reminiscent of a cheese wheel, and ‘Red Warty Thing,’ a pumpkin that lives up to its name!

If blue-green/gray overtones are more to your liking, select ‘Queensland Blue,’ ‘Blue Lakota,’ ‘Jarrahdale,’ or ‘Marina Di Chioggia.’ Each of these “specialty pumpkins” (they may more accurately be classified as squash) weighs in the 6–12 pound range and offers an interesting addition to fall displays.

Q.  How do I prepare my garden and landscape for the upcoming winter season? Should I compost all my garden debris that I remove from the garden? –Robert MacArthur, York, Maine

A. It’s a wonderful idea to clean up the garden each fall in preparation for the winter ahead. The chores you do now will allow for a quick jump-start in the spring.

Let’s start with your question regarding composting garden debris. All dead plant material should be removed from your garden. If you actively manage a compost pile––turning it frequently to reach internal temperatures of 110° F to 150° F—harmful pathogens from diseased tissue should be destroyed with composting. However, if you’re like me and passively compost with no turning—an anaerobic process—I’d suggest diseased material not be commingled with your “good” compost.

Fall is an excellent time to test the soil pH (acidity/alkalinity) level in your garden and lawn. Since it takes several years to neutralize soil acidity to a two-inch depth, apply the limestone as soon as possible in the fall, according to the test result recommendations.

Questions often arise about salvaging garden annuals for indoor use. If the plants are disease- and insect-free, give it a try. Remember, many common annuals thrive in sunny, warm, moist conditions––not exactly typical of our New England home environments in winter.

Other fall gardening chores include:
• Harvesting nonhybrid seeds
• Draining water from outdoor fountains
• Cleaning and sharpening hand tools
• Placing protective wraps around fruit trees to prevent vole damage
• Applying antidesiccant sprays to broadleaf evergreens
• Preparing a garden bed now for early pea plantings next spring
• Seeding a cover crop on open garden soil
• Lifting and storing tender bulbs such as cannas, dahlias, freesias, gladioli, and caladiums

Q. I planted ornamental gourds this year and would like to know how best to preserve them. Can you help provide some answers for me? –Shelly Falkenau, Peterborough, N.H.

A. Gourds can be divided into three categories:

•Soft-shelled (Cucurbita species) varieties commonly used for ornamental decorations
•Hard-shelled (Lagenaria species) varieties suitable for making bird houses, water dippers, bowls, and utensils
•Vegetable sponge (Luffa species) varieties, whose outer shell is easily removed to expose a tough, fibrous interior used as a sponge

Your question refers to the soft-shelled varieties, the colorful, fancifully shaped ornamental gourds with such whimsical names as ‘Aladdin’s Turban,’ ‘Striped Crown of Thorns,’ ‘Cannon Ball,’ ‘Orange Warted,’ and ‘White Egg.’

It’s best to complete the gourd harvest before the first frost, once the stems dry and turn brown. Take care to avoid bruising the flesh during the harvest process. Decay organisms look for any entry point, and broken skin is their winning ticket. Wash the gourds with soap and water, dry well, and rub them with alcohol to remove harmful pathogens. Gourds are now ready for the next step––the curing process.

Curing takes place in two stages. In step one, the outer skin hardens and the color sets within a week of being placed in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area. Separate each fruit—no touching allowed! If any fruit appears rotten, discard immediately.

The curing process continues as the gourd dries internally, a phase that lasts a minimum of four weeks. Warm temperatures accelerate this curing process. Once you hear the seeds rattle inside, the gourd is ready for prime time. Some folks enjoy applying a light wax finish to the gourd surface, while others prefer a more naturalistic appearance. With care, your ornamental gourds will provide you with months of enjoyment.